Jewelry Stones

A number of different materials are used to make Southwestern jewelry. Silver is the dominant metal used for this jewelry, although gold, copper, or brass may also be used. Semi-precious stones, such a turquoise, lapis lazuli, and onyx are often used. In addition, biological materials, such as coral and shell are quite common as well.

Among the stones used for Southwestern jewelry, turquoise is the most characteristic. Turquoise is a mineral of copper, and comes in a variety of blue/green shades. Often veins of brown to black inclusions permeate the stone. Turquoise is a fairly porous stone, although some veins of natural turquoise may be somewhat hard. In addition to natural turquoise, Southwestern jewelry incorporates a number of treating techniques for the stone. Since it is porous, the stone may be stabilized by injecting it with a clear acrylic to harden the stone and enhance its color. Some turquoise is reconstituted, that is, ground into a powder, mixed with epoxy, and formed into blocks. This block can then be worked like natural stone.

Red coral is the common name of the Corallium rubrum , a marine coral whose carbonaceous skeleton has a color that ranges from light red to a dark, blood red. Corals live in marine colonies, and their hard skeletons are a type of limestone. When the coral dies, its body parts decompose, leaving behind the stony skeleton. Coral has a natural matte finish, but can be polished to a high shine, which is how it is most often used in Southwestern jewelry. Like turquoise, coral can be stabilized or reconstituted.

Mother of pearl is another material that is derived from marine animals. It is a mix of minerals that is secreted by pearl oysters and other mollusks, and which coat the inside of the mollusk's shell. It is usually white, but filled with striations that emit a rainbow of colors in direct light. Mother of pearl is most often used in inlay work, such as the mosaic figures from Zuni jewelry.

Onyx is a translucent form of quartz. In nature, it can range in color from dark gray to pale blue. It is commonly dyed black for use in Southwestern jewelry, however. This enhances the stone's appearance, and makes a striking contrast between the other stones used in jewelry-making. The onyx stone is most often used in a setting, rather than in inlay work.

Black jet is a hard form of anthracite coal. It can be polished to a glassy shine, and can be used in delicate inlay work.

Lapis lazuli is a rock composed of three different minerals: lazurite, pyrite, and calcite. The color ranges from bluish purple to deep blue, and it may have gold flecks or striations. This is not a stone that is used in more traditional designs. Artists prefer to use the deep blue lapis lazuli in modern, contemporary designs.

The Spiny Oyster is native to the coast of Baja California . The shell of this oyster comes in a variety of vibrant colors that range from red to purple, with many striations and variations in the colors. The red-colored shell of the spiny oyster is often used as a substitute for red coral in Southwestern jewelry designs.

In addition to the visual appeal of the materials, the Native Americans also associate spiritual symbols to the various stones. For instance, the Navajo believe that turquoise appeases the Wind Spirit, and brings good fortune. The Hopi have a legend about a lizard which travels "between the above and the below." This lizard is said to excrete turquoise, and the Hopi believe the turquoise can prevent floods.

Four Sacred Stones

For the Navajo, there are four sacred stones, each of which is associated with a mountain that forms one of the boundaries of the Navajo homeland. Coral represents the San Francisco Peaks just north of Flagstaff . White shell, or mother of pearl, represents Mt. Blanco, in Colorado . Turquoise represents Mt. Taylor, near Grants, NM. Finally, black jet represents Colorado 's Mt. Hesperus .

Much of the jewelry of the Southwest is intricate and beautifully made, but it represents more than simple, ornamental beauty. It also expresses fundamental cultural and religious themes of the Native American peoples of the American Southwest.